Procedures for installing Chevy Disc Brakes

Procedure for installation of the Che*y disk brakes.  This procedure assumes that you know how to R&R hubs and bearings.  If something is not clear in these instructions, just drop me a line and I will try and clear it up.

1. Jack up vehicle and put jackstands under the axle on each side
2. Remove rim and tire
3. Remove Locking hub (note: there is two snap rings that must be removed to get to the bearings.  One on the axle and one ring on the hub)
4. Once the locknuts are removed, pull the hub / drum assembly off.
5. Put a drip pan under the backing plate
6. Disconnect the brake line from the wheel cylinder
7. Remove the six bolts that hold the backing plate and spindle on.
8. Remove the backing plate at set aside.  Wiggle the spindle off, or you might need to hit it with a rubber mallet to break it free.  Once the spindle is removed, pull the bolt that holds the brake line on top of the knuckle.  Set assembly aside.
9. Head back to the bench to ready the parts for installation.
10. Take you used spindle and knock out the old inner bearing.  Install new bearing.  If you bought the spindle bearing kit, put the inner seal on before installling spindle.
11. Assemble hub / rotor assembly now if need be, pack the inner and outer bearing with grease.
12. Install the inner bearing first (the larger one).  Then install the hub seal.  This will hold the inner bearing in place for installation.
13. Install the Che*y spindle on the knuckle.  Be sure you have all the needed seals in place. 
14. Next, put on the Che*y backing plate.  Now install the 6 bolts that hold the assembly on.
15. Torque to 60 ft lbs in a star pattern.
16. Lightly grease the spindle.
17. Install the hub / rotor assembly next.  Once it´s on the spindle, slide in the outer bearing.  Put on the spindle nut that has the pin on it, the  pin should be facing you.  Adjust tightness till there is no end play in the hub / rotor assembly.  Then the washer and then the locknut.  This locknut needs to be torqued to 80 ft lbs

At this point this is what the assembly looks like.  The backing plate should be installed so the caliper mounts on the back side (towards the rear axle).  I do not think there is a right and left backing plate.  They look to be identical.

Now start assembling the calipers.  Pull the brake pads out, the one that goes closest to the caliper piston has a groove for the spring clip.  It goes on the pad like in the picture to the left.

The pad with the lip on it sits in the groove on the caliper.

Insert the pad as shown.  The spring clip actually goes into the piston to hold it in place.

The holes for the caliper pins, on the piston side need a rubber isolator put in the groove.  Lightly lubricate the short sleeve and insert into hole. 

This is what the sleeve looks like when installed correctly.

I test fit the hose and banjo bolts that I guess on the size.  Looks to be the correct length.  It´s 7/16-20x1-1/16.  Anything shorter would not have enough threads to hold tight, and any longer would bottom out the threads

Be sure to install the bronze washers on each side of the of the connector as shown in the picture.

Before you slide the caliper into place you need to gind the knuckle here (see photo) to allow the caliper freedom of movement

This shows where I ground off additional material to clear the knuckle.

This picture shows the amount of clearance between the caliper and knuckle when installed.

After you grind off the material, put "Disc Brake Quiet" on the backs of the brake pads.  This prevents vibration between the caliper and the shoes, which is a sqeaky brake.

The caliper pins are installed next and they should be torqued to 17-24 ft lbs.  The put on the brake line and torque that bolt to 17-24 ft lbs also. 

This is what the finished product should look like. 

Next, remove the old boot off of the Bronco master cylinder and install it on the new one.  Yes, it´s a little undersized for the new bore, but it should stretch if not too old.  Add a little grease to the hole where the rod goes through.  Install master cylinder on vehicle and bench bleed before you hook it up to the lines. If you obtained the master cylinder noted in the parts list above, it is a direct swap for the factory Bronco one.  Even the brake lines are the same size and require no adapters. 
First thing to do is to bench bleed the master cylinder.  There are two ways to do this:

• Place the MC in a vice or install on vehicle ensuring that it is level.  Attach the supplied nipples and hose to the outlet ports on the MC.  Fill the reservoirs 1/2 way.  Put the hoses in the reservoir.  Use a dowel or something similar and push the piston in till no more bubbles appear when you pump the piston.  Put the cap on and install in the vehicle.
   

• The other way is to install the plugs into the outlet ports.  Install MC in vehicle or vise, be sure that it is level.  Fill the reservoir 1/2 way, put the cover on and pump the pedal slowly, with 20 sec breaks between pumps to allow the air to rise.  Do this until you feel a firmness in the pedal.  Then attach one brake line at a time and bleed the system. 
   

Do the rear brakes first which is the front reservoir.  Once the line is attached and tightened, loosen one of the rear wheel cylinder bleeders, attach a piece of vacuum hose to the bleeder.  Making sure the reservoir is full, replace the cap.  The other end of the hose attached to the bleeder needs to be submerged in a cup full of brake fluid.  This will keep you from sucking air back into the system between strokes and you do not need a helper for this way.  With a hand on the brake pedal, look under the vehicle at the hose in the glass as you pump.  Pump about five times and recheck the level of the reservoir.  IF you let the reservoir go dry you will suck air into the system all over again.  Once filled keep pumping until no more air bubbles appear on the down stroke of the pedal.  Next, tighten the bleeder with a wrench.  Remove the hose and go to the other rear bleeder and repeat the process.
 

Next, bleeding the front calipers.  Be sure to top of the reservoir first before bleeding.  Place cap back on MC.  Loosen the driver side bleeder on the front caliper first.  Attach the piece of hose and insert into the cup full of brake fluid.  Pump the pedal until no more air bubbles appear.  Tighten bleeder and move to the passenger side.  Remember to keep adding fluid to the MC so not to suck air back into the system.  Now bleed the passenger side the same way.  Next, return to the drivers side and repeat process.  By now you should have an extremely firm pedal.  If you do not. repeat the process on the whole vehicle until a firm pedal is achieved. 

Time to put the tires and wheels on and go for a test drive.  Be extremely cautious during this first trip in case there is any problem in the install.  Hopefully all went well and you are very pleased in your new brakes.  Please understand that Motoman´s Madness is not responsible for the install of your disc brakes, but has try to provide a guideline and parts list to make this affordable for the general backyard mechanic that has experience working on these types of vehicles.  If you are not confident in your work, please have a professional review the install in a qualified shop.

PLEASE NOTE:  If the brake system does not seem to bleed correctly...check this:  Upon close inspection I noticed the caliper on the driver's side was binding somehow and causing the backing plate to deflect when pressure was applied.  This was causing the double pump problem and a pull to the passenger side at high speed braking.  I went and clearanced the backing plate a little more and found the shims on the caliper bolts had deformed from to many lbs of torque when tightening.  I replaced those and wahlah!!  Fantastic brakes!

Back to Motoman's Tech page!

 .Back to Motoman's Madness